Matterhorn Peak, September 2002
North Arete, 5.6

Overnight trip to summit via the North Arete.  The weather was perfect, with no wind, and relatively warm temperatures.  We were there the evening of the vernal equinox, with a full moon in the sky, serenaded to sleep by the crashing of rockfall off the cliffs above the glacier.  An early start put us on the climb in good time, and we topped out early in the afternoon.  The beautiful corner that Nate is shown climbing is closer to 5.8 than 5.6 by current standards, but if you've climbed much in the High Sierra it will come as no surprise. The long hike out by headlamp sucked as usual.


Rest stop along Horse Creek on the trail in.  Notice the overloaded daypacks.


Matterhorn Peak, with the glacier in the foreground.


Nate on our campsite boulder.


Me belaying after the first traverse pitch.


Nate in the beautiful dihedral just below the ridge top.