Beulah's Book (5.9)

Location of Climb: Oak Creek Canyon
Aspect of Face: South
Time Category: A Few Hours

Intro

This is a sweet multi-pitch climb perfectly suited to the leader wanting to break into 5.9 while minimizing epic potential. The first pitch is easy 5.6, with 5.5 and 5.3 on the third and fourth pitches, respectively. The last pitch can be walked up without a belay. The second pitch, however, is difficult and aesthetic, and is one of the best at Red Rocks. Approach the climb by the same route as that leading to Solar Slab Gully, then traverse left around the base of the rock to reach the tree-shaded belay.

Climb

The crux of the route is just above the second belay, and is shown in the photo at right. Consensus seems to be that it is easier to move through the crux facing out, rather than facing into the rock as shown in the photo. Place a #4 Camalot a few feet above the bolt, and then pull up into a beautiful overhanging corner. The crack in this corner readily takes 1 to 2-inch pro, and can be climbed direct or cheated using face holds to the right. Pull up and to the left just below the point where the overhang becomes a roof, and you'll find a new two-bolt rap anchor. With two ropes, you can do one rap from here straight down to the ground. Note that if you rap back to the previous belay, and then rap the first pitch from there, you will probably get your rope stuck in the crack on the first pitch.

The third pitch proceeds up and to the right over fairly easy terrain, but without much pro. Try slinging a piece of varnish for pro if nothing else is available. Belay at the point where the rock becomes steeper and has several good horizontal cracks across it. The fourth pitch goes straight up from there, to a belay at a small tree. Descend down Solar Slab Gully using a single rope, or down Johnny Vegas with two ropes. You'll probably run into some traffic on the way down regardless of which descent route you choose.

Gear

A single rope if you're going all the way to the top; two ropes if you're rapping after the second pitch or rapping Johnny Vegas. Smaller Nuts, Tri-cams, Hexes and SLCDs for most of the placements, and a #4 Camalot or equivalent for the crux.