Dark Shadows (5.8-)

Location of Climb: Pine Creek Canyon
Aspect of Face: North
Time Category: A Few Hours

Intro

This is a great climb during hotter weather because it's shaded and cool all day. The last two pitches are especially worthwhile, offering steep and sustained climbing on hard varnished rock.

The approach involves hiking into Pine Creek Canyon, trending toward the right (north) around the Mescalito, until you are across from the steep, varnished Dark Shadows wall, then descending into and crossing the creekbed to the base of the climbs.

Climb

A 60-meter rope will allow you to combine the first and second, then third and fourth pitches, reducing this to a two-pitch climb. This works well, because the belay at the top of the second pitch is the most spacious on the route. If you do combine the third and fourth pitches, be careful to avoid rope drag. Use a long sling if you clip any of the bolts at the third belay as you pass it.

When rappelling off the route from the second belay, the ropes tend to end up in the pool at the base of the climb, so bring ropes that you don't mind getting wet.

Gear

Bring two ropes for the rappel, and a good variety of gear, including several smaller cams or equivalent. The third pitch will take big gear if you want to bring it - I actually saw a climber place a #5 Camalot on this pitch - but there are plenty of solid placements that don't require big pro. You'll want the smaller stuff for the crux pitch.