N.E. Arete of Bridge Mtn (5.6)

Location of Climb: Bridge Mountain
Aspect of Face: Northeast
Time Category: All Day

Intro

As I have heard it, the first ascent of this route was done free-solo, and was approached by fifth-class climbing out of Icebox Canyon. I'll describe a less painful approach along the Bridge Mountain trail from the summit. That notwithstanding, this approach involves genuine fourth-class climbing above a huge rock face (1000+ feet), so it's not for the timid. The approach will take you past many beautiful natural treasures, including a rock arch and the "hidden forest".

To get to the trailhead, drive the loop road to Willow Spring. The paved road into Willow Spring will turn to dirt just past the picnic area. This is the beginning of the four-wheel drive road. Continue on it up to the turnout on the left (east) side of the road at the summit. Park there and follow the trail east toward Bridge Mountain. The trail is well-marked up to the point where the tread turns to solid rock. The best guide for the trail from that point on is Hiking Las Vegas by Branch Whitney. I'll summarize it exceedingly briefly by saying that you should trend northeast across the rock ridge between the head of Icebox and Pine Creek Canyons, toward the shallow crack/corner that ascends the toe of Bridge Mountain. The climbing up that corner is 4th-class, with huge exposure. Step around to the left when you get to a ledge, and head up toward the natural arch. Climb through or around the arch to arrive at the hidden forest.

Once at the hidden forest, proceed to the northeast down a water-polished gully, using the cracks down the center of it for holds. While somewhat intimidating, the moves are no harder than 4th-class. Exit the east side of the gully to a good ledge just before the drop-off above the large tree, and continue around the ledge to the base of the route.

Climb

The route follows the obvious crack/chimney up the center of the arete. The climbing is easy, with good belay stances.

Gear

A standard rack will suffice, although given the long approach and the easy climbing, you may want to substitute some lighter passive gear such as Tri-cams for the heavier SLCDs. There are placements for larger gear, but the hardest moves are protected by gear no larger than 3 inches.