Tunnel Vision (5.8)

Location of Climb: White Rock Spring
Aspect of Face: East
Time Category: All Day

Intro

Another Red Rocks ultra-classic, this climb used to be relatively unknown, but now sees many climbers. Its popularity is well-deserved, as it is adventurous and varied climbing on clean, steep rock. The eastern exposure keeps it cool even in warmer weather. The photos on this page were taken on a day when the temperature reached 110 degrees. We were comfortable on the climb, but suffered on the hike out.

Approach the climb from the White Rock Spring parking area, hiking down an old dirt road to the west toward Willow Spring. As you pass through a small stand of juniper after about a half mile, you should see a trail leaving the road down into the wash on the north side. Follow it, and head directly west toward the light-colored, slablike ridge. Finding the start of the climb for the first time can be fairly difficult. Follow a loose, braided trail up through red-colored rock to the base of the cliff. Look for a short scramble below a narrow gully up to a ledge that is somewhat hidden behind brush. Move right along it until below a roof to the left of a corner. If the spot looks trampled, with chalk on the rock, you've found it.

Climb

Start in the crack underneath the roof, moving left into the corner. Climb over a chockstone, and then move up a face to the left of a chimney, stepping right over the chimney into a wider alcove/chimney. Move up through that and belay on a ledge above it. The next pitch goes up a short corner, and then an awkward move to left into a shallow chimney/slot. Follow that to just below where it narrows and becomes very steep. The next pitch ascends the chimney through the crux. Stay to the right in the chimney (the face to the left of the chimney is more difficult), moving up into a corner (shown from above in the first photo), followed by a belay on a large ledge. Climb up around the right side of the roof above the ledge, and follow the low angle corner to another large ledge at the mouth of a cave (see second photo). The tunnel pitch is a lot of fun. Look to the right near the bottom of the pitch for a small nut placement in a crack, then turn around toward the roof of the cave about fifty feet up, and you'll see mouth-size huecos that perfectly fit a .75 camalot. Trend left toward the light above and exit left along ledge to a corner, and belay on a nice ledge partway up. The last pitch will take you to a ledge below a steep overhang. you can follow it left to escape the route, or continue to the top. Descend to the south, trending west into the top of a gully, then follow that down. You'll need to make one very short rappel.

Gear

Bring a fairly large rack, as you'll need to rig gear belays, and make sure to have a few large cams or big bros for the chimney crux.